Presentation and scores of the 2023 vintage
Clap of end for this beautiful week of primeurs in the Bordeaux region. A period during which wine professionals criss-cross the vineyard to discover the last vintage harvested. Like every year, this marathon-like week is an opportunity to discover or rediscover the superb properties that host the various tastings.
Approaching a wine still in aging may seem somewhat confusing, pronounced tannins, nose on restraint, and yet, it already has beautiful assets to express to us. Let’s explore this new vintage which, once again, is remarkable for its singularity.
But, before discovering the notes concerning the wines tasted, what happened in the vineyard in 2023? This is enough to begin to better understand, but also, better understand this vintage where, as I like to say, the great terroirs spoke.
Presentation
The winter weather conditions were close to the normal of the season, despite the few cool and little watered weeks that will replace from mid-January, which will, nevertheless, allow a homogeneous and not early bud break.
If in 2022 this bud break (when the buds develop) was more premature, in 2023 it arrived in more favorable conditions, despite a month of March having experienced, on average, lower sunshine and higher rainfall. Fortunately, this will prevent frost episodes that occur regularly at the beginning of April, and that can be destructive for the plots.
Spring, meanwhile, will experience climatic conditions during which periods of heat and rain will follow one another revealing a strong late blight pressure. This tension will be present throughout the vegetative period of the vine, forcing the winegrowers to fight with panache against this pathogen, too, destructive. Unfortunately, despite the considerable efforts that will be undertaken and, depending on the regions and terroirs, the damage will be significant, although they are not generalized to the whole vineyard as the media may have implied.
The month of May will allow to find a certain serenity, with a more regular growth thanks to average temperatures higher than normal of season. Flowering (flower development) will develop in relatively dry and warm conditions, between the last week of May and the first of June. By the way, in the middle of flowering, there will be no difference in maturity between Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon, which bodes well.
If June is marked by 26 days with temperatures above 25°C and 8 days of heavy rain mainly in the form of thunderstorms (45mm per episode on average), July will be more contrasted.
Temperatures will be similar to those in June, but rainfall will be significantly lower, as will sunshine, which will also be lower than usual.
The beginning of the summer will be marked by considerable rainstorms, which will lead to a clear magnification of the berries. This will also prevent the installation of water pressure for the vineyard.
Before August 15, the little summer atmosphere of the vintage left dread a delicate end of maturation. But, once again, Mother Nature was able to restore momentum to this vintage. Until mid-September the summer will settle and allow an ideal ripening for the berries. It should be noted that such a late heatwave will have some damage. The water reserves of the soils will be variable and therefore, of course, essential for the good continuity of the maturation of the clusters.
The Merlots on filter soils may have shown some signs of wilting, while those from clay-limestone soils have resisted much better. The Cabernet-Sauvignon suffered little, due to their low sensitivity to water stress.
When the time comes for the balance, it will emerge that the harvest should be significant both in the number of clusters, in the number of berries per cluster, and in the weight of these berries. Abundance would be there.
The first harvests begin on August 12 in Sauternes, with the harvest of Sauvignons. The Semillon will be harvested from 14. A rainy episode occurred in the other regions between 13 and 15 will force the little hands to wait before surveying the vineyard.
The climatic conditions of this atypical summer will be particularly favorable to obtain white grapes of a very high quality. Acidity, aromatic potential and low sweetness will be maintained and will predict a vintage worthy of the greatest.
For the reds, the first Merlots will be picked during the first days of September to be generalized to the vineyard the week of September 11. The harvest of Cabernet-Sauvignon will begin a week later, however, the majority will be harvested after September 20 because of a rainy episode. Some properties will decide to stop harvesting, others to continue. Once again, the choices of winemakers will be paramount.
In general, the berries have a very reasonable sweetness rate, lower than in 2022, while having a nice acidity despite the hot weather of the end of summer. Most wilted berries, too concentrated or too infested with late blight, will be eliminated during sorting in the cellar, the health of the grapes introduced in tanks is therefore remarkable. It therefore appears that the profile of these berries is fruity with a remarkable aromatic expression.
For Sauternes, a region with a unique character, each vintage brings its share of surprise, much more than elsewhere. If in 2022 it was necessary to be patient, even daring, in 2023 the conditions were more peaceful, enough to approach the harvest with serenity. A first sorting will be done in early September, but everything will happen after September 11. Indeed, in ten days, 75 mm of rain will fall on the vineyard which will allow the development of Botrytis Cinerea. From September 23, the return of extraordinarily hot and dry conditions will allow to obtain a dazzling concentration of grapes, but very homogeneous. Two to three more tries will follow from late September to mid-October. Even if some properties will have fairly high yields, the average of the appellation remains, however, lower than the previous year. The fact remains that the grapes are pure, with a high sweetness, but balanced by a higher acidity than in 2022.
Overall personal opinion
If 2022 was the vintage of resilience, 2023 is the one that best defines what the terroir is.
For the reds, the quality is quite heterogeneous. Not surprisingly, the greatest terroirs have spoken. The aromatic intensity is at the rendezvous with very elegant fruity notes, spicy with subtle floral notes, for the most refined. The balances are well controlled and the wines have a nice structure, the alcoholic degrees are slightly lower than 2022, so there were few missteps. The tannins are, in general, fine, elegant and provide a certain foundation, even if some are still quite hard, proof that the breeding will do them the greatest good.
On the left bank big blow of heart for the appellation Saint-Julien which, once again, is of an insolent homogeneity. Margaux is also not left behind with very great successes. Finally, I want to highlight the name of Listrac-Médoc which comes out of very beautiful wines that deserve, to my taste, that we look more.
On the right bank, big crush for Saint-Émilion. Very heterogeneous certainly, but the terroirs were able to express themselves. It is true that it is always difficult to understand this appellation as there is a way to express it, however the touch of winegrowers and oenologists has clearly been felt. Some properties stand out from the rest, and it is not anecdotal.
For dry whites, this is undoubtedly a vintage that will leave a mark. Pessac-Léognan and the Graves have seen the birth of very great wines that will be enjoyed both in their youth and after a few years of aging in the cellar for the best.
The sweet whites, like the dry ones, are also exceptional. Precision, complexity, intensity, liveliness, words are lacking to express the finesse, elegance but above all the potential of these wines. A vintage that will go down in history.
Once again, I am delighted with the week spent discovering this new vintage full of promise. Thanks to the castle organizers of the various tastings, it was managed with a master’s hand. A big thank you also to the castles that were able to welcome me more confidentially, it was as always, moments filled with sharing.
Finally, I would like to conclude this article with a message of hope. Long in the fog, partly because of a nauseating bashing, the wines of Bordeaux come out the head of the water. New farming methods, more environmentally friendly crops (first organic vineyard since 2020), lower prices (between 25 to 50% on average compared to 2022), all criticisms were taken into account. So, go beyond each other’s opinions and build your own. The revival of Bordeaux wines is here, and more than ever!
I let you discover the notes of the more than 200 wines tasted below. Comments will follow in future articles.
Notes of red wines
Left bank
Haut-Médoc
- Château Beaumont 92-93/100 Great value for money
- Château Belgrave 93-94/100
- Château Bel Orme Tronquoy Lalande 90-91/100
- Château de Camensac 93-94/100
- Château Cantemerle 93-94/100
- Château Citran 91-92/100
- Château Coufran 91-92/100
- Château Lannessan 91-92/100
- Château Larrivaux 89-90/100
- Château La Lagune 94-95/100 Favorite
- Château de Lamarque 92-93/100
- Château La Tour Carnet 93-94/100
- Château Livran 88-89/100
- Château Sénéjac 90-91/100
Listrac-Médoc
- Château Clarke 93-94/100
- Château Fonréaud 92-93/100
- Château Fourcas Dupré 92-93/100 Great value for money
- Château Fourcas Hosten 93-94/100 Favorite
- Château Martinho 91-92/100
Margaux
- Château Angludet 92-93/100
- Château d’Arsac 91-92/100
- Château Cantenac Brown 95-96/100
- Château le Coteau 91-92/100
- Château Dauzac 95-96/100 Favorite
- Château Desmirail 94-95/100
- Château Giscours 95-96/100
- Château Kirwan 94-95/100
- Château Labégorce 94-95/100
- Château Lascombes 95-96/100
- Château La Tour de Bessan 91-92/100
- Château Marquis d’Alesme 94-95/100
- Château Marquis de Terme 94-95/100
- Château Monbrison 93-94/100
- Château Prieuré-Lichine 94-95/100
- Château Rauzan-Gassies 93-94/100
- Château Siran 94-95/100 Great value for money
- Château du Tertre 94-95/100
Médoc
- Château Carmenère 89-90/100
- Château Les Ormes Sorbet 89-90/100
- Château Potensac 92-93/100 Favorite
- Château Saint-Hilaire 89-90/100
Moulis-en-Médoc
- Château Anthonic 90-91/100
- Château Chasse-Spleen 92-93/100
- Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 91-92/100
- Château Maucaillou 91-92/100
- Château Mauvesin Barton 91-92/100 Great value for money
- Château Poujeaux 92-93/100 Favorite
Pauillac
- Château Batailley 95-96/100
- Château Clerc Milon 95-96/100
- Château Croizet-Bages 93-94/100
- Château d’Armailhac 94-95/100
- Château Duhart-Milon 95-96/100
- Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 95-96/100 Great value for money
- Château Grand-Puy Lacoste 95-96/100
- Château Haut-Batailley 94-95/100
- Château Lynch-Bages 95-96/100
- Château Lynch-Moussas 94-95/100
- Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 97-98/100 Favorite
Saint-Estèphe
- Château Cos Labory 93-94/100
- Château de Côme 91-92/100
- Château Domeyne 91-92/100
- Château Graves de Pez 91-92/100
- Château Lilian Ladouys 92-93/100
- Château Ormes de Pez 93-94/100 Great value for money
- Château Petit Bocq 91-92/100
- Château de Pez 94-95/100
- Château Phélan Ségur 94-95/100 Favorite
- Château Tronquoy-Lalande 93-94/100
Saint-Julien
- Château Beychevelle 95-97/100
- Château Branaire-Ducru 95-96/100
- Château Gloria 94-95/100 Great value for money
- Château Gruaud Larose 95-96/100
- Château Lagrange 95-96/100
- Château Langoa Barton 95-96/100
- Château La Fleur Lauga 90-91/100
- Château Léoville Barton 97-98/100
- Château Léoville Poyferré 97-98/100 Favorite
- Château Moulin de la Rose 90-91/100
- Château Saint-Pierre 95-96/100
- Château Talbot 95-96/100
- Château Teynac 92-93/100
Graves and Pessac-Léognan
Graves
- Château Chantegrive 89-90/100
- Château Ferrande 90-91/100
- Château Rahoul 89-90/100
Pessac-Léognan
- Château Carbonnieux 93-94/100
- Château de Fieuzal 93-94/100
- Château de France 91-92/100
- Château Haut-Bergey 92-93/100
- Château Larrivet Haut-Brion 92-93/100
- Château Latour-Martillac 93-94/100
- Château La Louvière 91-92/100
- Château Malartic-Lagravière 96-97/100
- Château Olivier 94-95/100 Great value for money
- Château Pape Clément 95-96/100
- Château Picque Caillou 92-93/100
- Château de Rouillac 91-92/100
- Domaine de Chevalier 97-98/100 Favorite
Right bank
Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux
- Château Alcée 92-93/100 Great value for money
- Château Ampélia 90-91/100
- Château Cap de Faugères 92-93/100
- Clos Puy Arnaud 91-92/100
- Domaine de l’A 92-93/100 Favorite
Fronsac
- Château Dalem 92-93/100
- Domaine de la Huste 91-92/100 Great value for money
Pomerol
- Château Beauregard 93-94/100
- Château le Bon Pasteur 93-94/100
- Château la Cabanne 93-94/100
- Château Clinet 96-97/100 Favorite
- Château La Croix de Gay 93-94/100
- Château La Patache 92-93/100
- Château Le Gay 95-96/100
- Château Gazin 95-96/100
- Château Petit-Village 95-96/100
- Château la Pointe 94-95/100 Great value for money
- Château Rouget 94-95/100
- Clos Roskam 91-92/100
- Enclos Tourmaline 95-96/100
Saint-Émilion
- Château Badette 92-93/100
- Château Balestard la Tonnelle 93-94/100
- Château Bellefont-Belcier 96-97/100
- Château Cadet-Bon 91-92/100
- Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 95-96/100
- Château Cap de Mourlin 93-94/100
- Château la Couspaude 93-94/100
- Château Chauvin 92-93/100
- Château Clos de Sarpe 92-93/100
- Château la Commanderie 92-93/100
- Château Corbin 92-93/100
- Château Croix de Labrie 97-98/100
- Château Dassault 94-95/100
- Château la Dominique 94-95/100
- Château Faugères 93-94/100
- Château de Ferrand 94-95/100
- Château Fombrauge 93-94/100
- Château Fonplégade 94-95/100
- Château Fonroque 94-95/100
- Château Franc Mayne 94-95/100
- Château la Gaffelière 96-97/100
- Château Grand Corbin Despagne 94-95/100
- Château Grand Mayne 94-95/100
- Château Haut-Sarpe 92-93/100
- Château Larcis Ducasse 95-96/100
- Château Larmande 93-94/100
- Château Laroque 94-95/100
- Château La Fleur 93-94/100
- Château La Fleur Morange 92-93/100
- Château La Marzelle 93-94/100
- Château La Tour Figeac 93-94/100
- Château Mangot 94-95/100 Great value for money
- Château Montlabert 92-93/100
- Château Pavie Macquin 97-98/100 Favorite
- Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 93-94/100
- Château Péby Faugères 95-96/100
- Château Puyblanquet 93-94/100
- Château de Pressac 94-95/100
- Château Saint Georges Côte Pavie 94-95/100
- Château Soutard 95-96/100
- Château Tour Saint Christophe 95-96/100
- Château Valandraud 96-97/100
- Château Villemaurine 93-94/100
- Clos Dubreuil 92-93/100
- Clos Fourtet 96-97/100
- Clos la Gaffelière 92-93/100
- Clos des Jacobins 91-92/100
- Clos Saint-Julien 91-92/100
- Clos Saint-Martin 94-95/100
Scores of dry white wines
Bordeaux
- Château d’Arsac, cuvée Céline 89-90/100
- Château Corconnac 89-90/100
- Château Doyac 90-91/100
- Château Fourcas Dupré 91-92/100 Great value for money
- Château L’indécise 89-90/100
- Les Arums de Lagrange 91-92/100 Favorite
Graves
- Château Chantegrive 89-90/100
- Château Ferrande 89-90/100
- Château Rahoul 89-90/100
Pessac-Léognan
- Château Bouscaut 93-94/100
- Château Carbonnieux 93-94/100
- Château de Fieuzal 93-94/100
- Château de France 90-91/100
- Château Larrivat Haut-Brion 92-93/100
- Château Latour-Martillac 93-94/100
- Château La Louvière 91-92/100
- Château Malartic-Lagravière 95-96/100
- Château Olivier 93-94/100 Great value for money
- Château Pape Clément 95-96/100
- Château Picque Caillou 91-92/100
- Château de Rouillac 92-93/100
- Domaine de Chevalier 97-98/100 Favorite
Vin de France
- Château le Retout 91-92/100 Great value for money
Vin Sans Indication Géographique
- Château du Tertre, Tertre Blanc 91-92/100 Favorite
Scores of sweet white wines
Barsac and Sauternes
- Château d’Arche 93-94/100
- Château Bastor-Lamontagne 93-94/100
- Château Broustet 92-93/100
- Château Climens 97-98/100
- Château Coutet 96-97/100
- Château Doisy Daëne 96-97/100 Great value for money
- Château Doisy-Védrines 95-96/100
- Château de Fargues 97-98/100
- Château Filhot 93-94/100
- Château Guiraud 97-98/100
- Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 96-97/100
- Château Lamothe Guignard 94-95/100
- Château La Tour Blanche 95-96/100
- Château Myrat 94-95/100
- Château Nairac 94-95/100
- Château de Rayne Vigneau 96-97/100 Favorite
- Château Rieussec 97-98/100
- Château Romer 93-94/100
- Château Sigalas Rabaud 96-97/100
- Château Suduiraut 97-98/100