Fonroque, or the vanguard of counter-current viticulture.
History
1620. It is in this year that we find traces of the first owners of the castle. It was Hélie de Bonneau, squire and lord of Fonroque. Over the legacies, the estate will be bequeathed from generation to generation until arriving in the hands of the De Malet Roquefort family. A family well known for having always owned Château La Gaffelière.
It was at the end of the 19th century that the château was sold by the De Malet Roquefort family to Jean Chatonnet, already owner of Château Magdelaine (today merged with Château Belair-Monange).
In 1931, the castle will experience its first turning point. The Moueix family, an illustrious family of Bordeaux merchants, owner of many estates, each more famous than the other (Pétrus to name but one), acquired the château.
In 1955 the castle will be raised to the rank of 1st cru classé when the first classification of Saint-Émilion wines was published, which is great recognition for all the work done over many years by the family and their teams.
But it was in 2001 that everything changed for the castle, since it was Alain Moueix who took over the management. Agricultural engineer and oenologist by training, he will bring with him new practices of vine cultivation by introducing organic and biodynamic farming. Second turning point for the castle, we can even speak here of a 360° turn in a region that is still very "traditional" in its cultivation methods.
A symbolic fact, the castle will therefore be the first Bordeaux classified growth to be certified biodynamic.
Today the estate is owned by the Guillard family (wealthy people from Nantes) who made their fortune in insurance. They are now at the head of the castle hotel restaurant Grand Barrail as well as the Mazeyres castle in Pomerol. Alain Moueix remains, meanwhile, consultant to the castle.
Terroir
The integration of biodynamics is not an easy task. This is why the question of terroir is essential.
Here in Fonroque the vineyard covers an area of 17.6 hectares, in one piece mainly facing west.
The terroir is made up of 3 types of soil, which are particular but very complementary in the production of wines:
- A plateau with calcareous soil with asteria. This will give the wine length, accuracy with perfect tension.
- A hillside with clay-limestone soil. The presence of clay will give the wine its full breadth.
- One foot of hill with sandy-loamy clay soil. The latter will allow the wine to develop its generosity and opulence.
Such a diversity of soils will make it possible to produce wines with 3 expressions, singular but so complementary. In the final assembly will result fresh wines, drinkable in their youth with a dimension cut to face long years of ageing.
Vine
The grape variety of the vineyard is composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, two emblematic grape varieties of the right bank.
Since 2001, and the takeover of the vineyard by Alain Moueix, the work in the vines has first been done organically and then biodynamically.
Biodynamics requires the winemaker to use different preparations at specific stages of vine development, based on the lunar calendar. Horn dung, quartz silica, plant infusions, etc. are then used.
Visionary and avant-garde, he did not hesitate to go beyond the dogmas established by his elders.
Since 2016, the estate has undertaken a phase of replanting Cabernet Franc, with the addition of 1.95 additional hectares of this iconic grape variety of the Saint-Émilion region.
A latest generation vat room
The work of the vine being in perpetual evolution, the castles must have a vat room and a cellar allowing an even more precise action and at the height of the contemporary challenges, both in terms of climate and marketing with the evolution, always more demanding, consumer expectations.
This is why since the 2021 vintage, Château Fonroque has inaugurated this latest generation vat room, intended to be able to accommodate the many vintages it will receive.
It consists of thermo-regulated cement vats whose proportions are calculated in accordance with the golden ratio. The number of tanks for fermentations has been increased, which makes it possible to work with even more precision.
The lighting is provided by large bays thus allowing natural light throughout the day, the sky being an important element in biodynamics, this canopy is a link with what is happening "upstairs".
Finally, out of concern for the environment, there is a reduction in the demand for electricity, which further illustrates the steps taken by the château in terms of ecology.
The wooden frame is visible, as if to comfort us in the fact that this vat room is none other than the fruit of work between man and nature, all in perfect harmony. The tranquility of the place leaves no doubt.
In Fonroque nothing is left to chance.
For breeding, once again, everything is perfectly mastered. Several containers are used to give a singularity to each vintage.
Obviously the first container is none other than the illustrious 225-litre oak barrel. Here, the share is around 30% new barrels for 70% barrels of 1 wine or more. Added to this, the cement tanks (formerly made of concrete) presented above in the part concerning the vat room.
However, tested for several years, new containers have appeared over the years.
Firstly, since 2018, place to thunderbolts. With a larger capacity than the barrel, it limits the effects brought by the wood while benefiting from the advantages of the latter. The drinkability of the wines is therefore more instantaneous.
Second, the amphora. This container made of clay allows an optimal contact between the wine and the oxygen because of its porosity (less important than the barrel, it can be different according to its cooking), without bringing aromas left by the wood, which makes it possible to produce wines focused on the fruit.
Third, concrete containers whether egg-shaped or diamond-shaped. Although used for many years already, these two models are quite atypical at first sight.
As you will have understood, all these different containers will make it possible to obtain wines with different profiles but oh so complementary during the final blend. The objective for the château was to experiment and open up to new breeding methods.
Limiting the influence given by the wood is a turning point that more and more castles are taking, aware of the criticisms that their wines can receive.
This quite simply gives a more instantaneous drinkability, while guaranteeing a good aging potential.
The integration of these new containers is therefore beneficial and gives the wines a new profile. The only drawback, if you had to find one, would be the mastery you need to have of each of these containers.
By visiting Château Fonroque, you really realize the impact that biodynamics has on the daily work of the teams of a classified growth.
Pioneer, visionary, or simply more respectful of his terroir, Alain Moueix has established himself as one of the big names in biodynamics in Bordeaux. And this to the delight of consumers.
